The History of NC BBQ

North Carolina's BBQ story begins with communal, whole-hog cooking influenced by Caribbean methods and adapts through economic and cultural shifts, forming the state’s two core styles. Eastern style uses the entire hog and vinegar-based sauce; Western (Lexington) focuses on pork shoulder with tomato-vinegar sauce. Key legacy restaurants—Skylight Inn, B’s Barbecue, Lexington Barbecue—keep these traditions alive, supported by a passionate food culture and even legislative acknowledgment.

Early Origins (17th–18th Century)

Caribbean & Spanish Influences: The cooking method came from the Caribbean (barbacoa) to southeastern U.S., brought by enslaved peoples and Caribbean settlers. Early North Carolinian cooks—particularly those enslaved—adopted vinegar marinades due to scarcity of citrus, leading to the foundational vinegar-and-pepper dressing.
Colonial Era and Hog Cultivation: By the late 1700s, hog farming was widespread—hog-to-human ratios were around 2:1 in the South.

A barbecue pit depicted in A Southern Barbecue, 1887, by Horace Bradley

19th Century – Early 20th Century

Whole-Hog Communal Cooking: For gatherings like weddings and church events, communities would smoke entire hogs over open coals—cementing a cherished tradition.
First Commercial NC BBQ Joint:
- Reverend Adam Scott began selling barbecue in Goldsboro around 1917.
- Bob Melton’s Barbecue (Rocky Mount, est. 1922, sit-down by 1924) popularized Eastern-style whole-hog cooking. Known as the “King of Southern Barbecue” and earning Rocky Mount the title “Barbecue capital of the World,” Melton’s influence remains legendary.

Barbequing pork over an open pit, putting on some sauce, Braswell Plantation near Rocky Mount, NC, September 1944. From Conservation and Development Department, Travel and Tourism Photo Files, North Carolina State Archives, Raleigh, NC

Mid-20th Century – Birth of Lexington (Western) Style

As ketchup became widespread in the late 1800s, a new BBQ variant emerged in western/central NC.
Lexington-style (Western or Piedmont style) focuses on pork shoulder with a tomato-vinegar “red” sauce, offering sweeter, richer flavor than Eastern.
Commercial establishments began concentrating on this style in the 1950s–60s.

A view of Red Bridges Barbecue in Shelby, NC. Locals gather for plates of chopped pork and vinegar-tomato sauce, capturing the community-centered tradition of Piedmont barbecue.

Iconic BBQ Institutions

Eastern-Style (Whole Hog, Vinegar-Based)

Skylight Inn BBQ (Ayden, est. 1947): Famous for hickory-smoked whole hog, chopped to order, topped with vinegar-pepper sauce. A must-visit pilgrimage for purists
Bum’s Restaurant (Ayden, est. 1963): A beloved cafeteria-style spot serving whole hog ‘cue and hearty sides
B’s Barbecue (Greenville, est. 1978): A roadside institution known for simply prepared whole-hog barbecue and Brunswick stew, cash-only and often sold out by midday.
Wilber’s Barbecue (Goldsboro, since 1962): Famous for oak-pit whole-hog cooking.
Hursey’s Bar-B-Q (Burlington, since ~1940s–60s): Offers Eastern sauce with a slight Western twist, cooked over wood coals
Grady’s Barbecue (Dudley, since 1986): Renowned brick-pit whole-hog BBQ served with traditional sides.

A vintage picture of Pete Jones the founder of Skylight Inn BBQ - From Skylight Inn's Facebook page.

East vs West: Key Differences

Lexington-Style (Shoulder Cut, Tomato-Vinegar Sauce)

Lexington Barbecue (“Monk’s”, est. 1962): The heart of Lexington-style—pork shoulder in red sauce with red slaw—so prized it's called “BBQ heaven”.
Speedy’s Barbecue (Lexington): A half-century-old drive-in known for tomato-vinegar sauce & red slaw.
Red Bridges Barbecue Lodge (Shelby, since 1946): Brick-pit shoulders with Lexington-style sauce, served with hushpuppies.

Lexington Barbecue was established in 1962 by Wayne Monk. -From Lee Bailey on Lil Mama's Recipes Facebook page.

chart that shows East VS West NC BBQ differences

Political & Cultural Legacy

The East vs. West BBQ rivalry remains fierce: in 2006–07, legislative efforts to declare one style “official” sparked controversy. A compromise awarded Lexington’s festival regional recognition.
BBQ continues central to NC culture—drawn to festivals, family gatherings, and the storied “pig pickin’,” where friends pick whole-hog BBQ off the pit together.

Fun Ballot box for voting to depict how BBQ help shape politics in NC

Modern Era – Innovation & Trail Expansion

NC BBQ Society’s Historic Barbecue Trail includes 15+ establishments across both styles, celebrating heritage cooking methods.
Contemporary Trends: Restaurants now create hybrid sauces and global flavor fusions, but traditional East and West styles remain favorites.